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February 28, 2019

Future Fridays: David Kay on Disrupting the Meat Industry

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Blog Content….

In this Future Fridays talk, David Kay, manager of communications and sustainability at Memphis Meats, explains how he is revolutionizing our meat production system. In his talk, part of the What’s the Big Idea? session at the Winter Fancy Food Show, he explains, “Meat is beloved. That’s true across cultures, geographies, and time. In the future, that’s only going to increase.” However, our current meat production process uses one-third of the world’s water and emits 18 percent of greenhouse gases, while also using up valuable land. Memphis Meats proposes one small change in the system that can make a huge impact: using a small quantity of cells from livestock that can be harvested and prepared in the same way as traditional meat. In addition to saving precious environmental resources, cell-based meat can lessen bacterial contaminations and reduce food waste.

View Kay’s full What’s the Big Idea? talk above as part of the SFA’s Future Fridays series. 


February 27, 2019

Restaurant Review: Condita, Edinburgh (Feb 2019)

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Restaurant Review: Condita, Edinburgh (Feb 2019)

 “Small is beautiful.”
This maxim could well apply to Condita with its lack of reception and bar, two
in the kitchen, three at front of house, six tables, only two dining options,
and a wine list of 20 bottles.

Condita Restaurant, Edinburgh

The exterior and location are distinctly low profile: the unremarkable
white frontage bearing the name Condita, with blinds obscuring the view from
outside, gives little indication this is a restaurant, except for a small
notice in the window. Its Salisbury Place address in the Newington district, south
of Edinburgh’s Old and New Town, lacks the advantage of a central location or
the gastronomic reputation of Leith or Stockbridge.

These limitations are seen as virtues by owner Mark Slaney
who opened Condita in November 2018. Certainly, a reception and bar are
impracticable given the small size of the room. Two tasting menus make economic
sense, minimising food waste. The need to book in advance reinforces this. A
short, mainly organic and biodynamic wine list from artisan producers, also reflects
the owner’s experience in his parents’ restaurant and as a commercial wine
buyer.  Six tables facilitate a high staff
to guest ratio, giving well-focused personal service and enables the kitchen to
function at optimum level.  The
understated exterior belies the eclectic décor and gastronomic delights inside,
whilst the location in an area bereft of fine dining establishments, offers a much
needed neighbourhood restaurant of quality. Indeed, with detailed records kept
of diners – an advantage of a small restaurant – repeat custom is already
evident, including one couple visiting three times in the three months since
opening.

Conor Toomey and Mark Slaney (Pic: Neil Hanna)

Not that Condita only aims at a local clientele. By engaging Conor Toomey, a chef with a highly distinguished pedigree, it will inevitably attract discerning foodies from further afield. Conor built his reputation as Michael Wignall’s sous chef at the Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park in Surrey, which held two Michelin stars, and as head chef at Storrs Hall hotel in Windermere, Cumbria and Amberley Castle in Sussex.  Most recently, he led the kitchens at the Michelin starred restaurant at the Isle of Eriska hotel in Oban.

His current position, far removed from those large, corporate establishments, allows him greater freedom to develop his repertoire in line with Mark’s strategy of championing artisan producers and keeping the operation small. Although it is still evolving, Conor’s cooking, based on classical roots but using contemporary techniques, has already reached stellar levels. Highly technical and complex, it employs organic seasonal produce, including fruit and vegetables from a Victorian kitchen garden in the Borders. As Conor says, “It’s all about the ingredients.” Dishes involve harmonious tastes, textures, temperatures and colours, with care taken to avoid over elaboration.  Invention, moderated by a clear understanding of how to maximise natural flavours, are much in evidence. Precise timing, with judicious seasoning and saucing, showcase seafood, meat and game at their best, reflecting great respect for the raw material. Attention to even the tiniest detail is astonishing. Beautiful presentation, on a variety of porcelain, slate and stone, is clean and precise without being too contrived.

An element of fun is also evident. The only clue to the eight or five course surprise tasting menu is a single strip of card with hand drawn images of an ingredient for each course. These may comprise the main or a minor component – the diner is left guessing. Added to the mystery is the addition of “snacks” which may arrive between courses and be larger than a course itself!

Prices – £80 for eight courses, £50 for five –  are realistic, given the quality of the ingredients and expertise in cooking. They also compare favourably with London restaurants of a similar standard.

A visit on a weekday evening in
February finally revealed Condita’s high ceilinged, white walled interior,
adorned with cascading hand-painted paper drapes designed by Rachel, Mark’s
artist partner. In keeping with the food and drink philosophy, the décor moves
with the seasons, the silver and black design reflecting the tone and mood of
winter. Well-spaced polished wooden tables, which usually seat two or four but can
be extended for six, are arranged in lower and raised areas with spotlighting
and candles giving discreet lighting.

Initially, from a choice of three
autumnal beverages, we chose a non-alcoholic pear juice. We declined a wine
flight with each course, opting instead for just three tasting glasses.

Mussel

A playful first course featured
a Shetland mussel poached in seaweed, resting on cod roe mousse, encased in a delicate
“shell” of thin potato. This was a delightful composition of fresh tastes and
contrasting textures.

Haddock

Similarly inventive was the
second course of poached haddock, where the mildly sweet flakes of soft white
flesh were sandwiched between crisp sheets of chicken skin. Smoked creme
fraiche and egg yolk puree added richness, whilst pickled seaweed gave the
required degree of acidity. The presentation of this dish, on grey slate
garnished with tree bark and leaves, was stunning.

Next came two “snacks.”

Snacks

Slow cooked ox tongue and tail (above left), meltingly tender morsels of deliciousness, showed how excellent use could be made of humble, neglected parts of the animal. Enveloped in a potato foam of ethereal lightness, the effect was rich, but not heavy, fittingly appropriate for a snack.

A glazed chicken wing (above right) cooked on a Japanese barbecue had a gentle smokiness which complimented the richness of the smoked eel hidden inside. This marriage of modest and extravagant ingredients worked particularly well.

The vegetarian course saw
different preparations of celeriac: salt baked and puree, both of which
accentuated its sweetness; in a lively, crunchy remoulade; and as delicate
crisps. This well-conceived and deftly executed dish demonstrated the
versatility of the ugly looking vegetable.

At this stage, and presumably
to stop diners gorging themselves ahead on a multi course menu, we were
presented with a warm sour dough loaf baked daily by sous chef Spyros. With a
crisp crust and firm, mildly lactic crumb, it was a model of its kind.

Pheasant

Expecting another vegetarian
course, this time showcasing salsify, we were surprised and delighted to be
served pheasant. A notoriously difficult bird to master, it was cooked to
perfection with moist, crisp skinned breast and a flavoursome pastilla of its
leg meat and offal. Salsify, with its creamy white flesh, added a crunchy
texture and a taste similar to oyster. The dish was bought together by a light,
well balanced thyme and bay jus, which complimented the gentle gaminess of the
pheasant.

Venison

Misled again by the “menu” into
expecting celery as a main component, we were spoilt with a second game course!
The loin of venison was accurately timed to a blushing medium rare, maximising
its deep flavour and smooth, firm texture. A disc of black pudding provided a
softer, earthy element that worked well with the venison. Golden beets and
apple puree gave sweetness and acidity to balance the richness, scurvy grass
added a peppery note, and celery offered a crunchy freshness. Finished with a
light jus, this inventive dish was a tour
de force
of game cookery.

The cheese course of brie,
fresh and pickled pear, pear gel, hazelnuts and wafer thin flatbread, showed
yet another imaginative approach to simple, seasonal ingredients.

Desserts, often the anti-climax
of tasting menus, did not disappoint, being equally if not more accomplished
than the savoury courses.

Parsnip Dessert

Parsnip in a dessert has been
tried elsewhere, but rarely as successful as here, where the parfait and puree
were of exemplary consistency and smoothness.

Rhubarb Dessert

Even better was a composite
dessert featuring forced rhubarb with white chocolate, almond custard in edible
silver, white chocolate panna cotta, and rosemary crumble. Although
unapologetically rich, the herbal and sharp elements from the rosemary and
rhubarb ensured it was not too sweet.

Black coffee with home-made
Garibaldi biscuits and beetroot and raspberry teacakes completed a memorable
meal. The gastronomic experience was enhanced by welcoming, knowledgeable and
unobtrusive service involving the whole team: Rachel conducted the meet and
greet and served the pre-prandial drinks; Marisol, our waitress, served some of
the courses, assisted by sous chef Spyros and Conor himself; and Mark took our
order and presented the wines – a floral and honeyed Fiano, a rich and spicy Le
Mani, a full bodied red Pignatello and a sweet Jurancon – with a succinct
description of their provenance and characteristics.

Condita Team

Condita comes from the Latin to
“set up”. The evidence after just three months opening in the low season for
restaurants is most encouraging, well on the way to meeting Mark’s vision of
“making people happy” with an intimate dining experience of fine food and wine.
Overall, the team have now established a restaurant of which they can be
justifiably proud. Fine Dining Guide wishes Condita well and hopes to return to
sample a different seasonal menu. We look forward in eager anticipation to its
inclusion in the respected national restaurant guides.

from Fine Dining Guide


February 26, 2019

Restaurant Review: Bistro Deluxe by Paul Tamburrini, Edinburgh (Feb 2019)

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Restaurant Review: Bistro Deluxe by Paul Tamburrini, Edinburgh (Feb 2019)

Paul Tamburrini
Bistro Deluxe by Paul Tamburrini

Bistro Deluxe by Paul Tamburrini at the Macdonald Holyrood
Hotel is a welcome addition to the rapidly expanding high end restaurant scene
in Edinburgh. Located near the base of the Royal Mile, adjacent to the Scottish
Parliament, it fills a much needed gap in Edinburgh’s Old Town which is  which largely bereft of fine dining
establishments. At least SMPs have a neighbouring restaurant of quality away
from the bustle of their own establishment. However, it is attracting attention
from a much wider field of discerning foodies.

Interior

The spacious wooden floored dining room has an inevitable
corporate feel but is no less attractive for that. With a bar at one end, it is
dressed in warming tones of brown, grey and cream, with well positioned wall
and spotlighting. Comfortable leather banquettes and smart curved backed dining
chairs are arranged around well-spaced, marble or wooden topped tables,
providing a maximum of 80 covers. Dominating the view as you walk in is the PT
motif of the eponymous chef.

Paul Tamburrini’s impressive CV includes leading positions in prestigious Scottish restaurants. He was executive chef at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow, then head chef at Cameron House, Loch Lomond, and, most recently, chef director at the Honours Brasserie in Edinburgh. His association with Michelin starred Martin Wishart is therefore well established, so it was only a matter of time before Paul set up under his own name.

Chef Paul Tamburrini

Paul’s confident cuisine is inspired by renowned French
chefs Guy Savoy, Michel Bras, and Frédéric Anton but bears its own creative hallmark.
Sourcing of the finest, mainly Scottish, produce is the essential prerequisite
for dishes with sometimes unexpected yet compatible combinations. Variations in
taste, texture, temperature and colour give interest to precisely timed, finely
tuned cooking. Plates are not overcrowded, sometimes with only three
ingredients, allowing the main one to shine, and letting flavours to speak for
themselves. Presentation, on a variety of porcelain and earthenware, is clean
and precise.

The a la carte menu, which moves with the seasons, has six
to seven choices in each course in addition to oysters, five steaks from the
Josper Grill, and two sharing dishes – rack of Scottish lamb and cote de beouf.
This is a sensible balance between the creative and more established, safer
offerings. Pricing is realistic, given the quality of the ingredients and the
skill in cooking. Appetisers range from £7.50 to £12.50, mains from £17.50 to
£25, and desserts from £8 to £16, the latter being a tarte tatin and panna
cotta ice cream for two.

A wide range of Old and New World countries feature on the 80 bottle wine list, with prices mainly between £20 and £50.

A visit on a quiet evening in February lacked the exciting buzz
of a busy weekend service but was no less enjoyable for that. Moreover, without
major distractions, we could concentrate on the food, which certainly did not
lack sparkle.

A tasting menu, featuring smaller portions from the carte,
delighted in its range of deftly prepared courses.

Foie Gras and Potato Mousse

We began with simple yet sophisticated starter: a seared tranche of foie gras with warm potato mousse. The delectable piece of buttery offal was partnered with an ethereally light, silky potato mousse. Although both elements were rich and fully flavoured, the overall effect was not heavy, indeed, we were left wanting more! Overall, to marry the extravagant with the humble was an inspired idea which worked well, reflecting an assurance in the cooking. (Wine: Weitgasse Gruner-Veltliner, Mantelhof)  

Beetroot

Next came a pressed terrine of baby beetroot, which, unlike
many inferior versions, was not too gelatinous. Vibrant in colour with a good
balance of sweet and earthy flavours, it was accompanied with a yogurt foam
topped with dried broccoli crumbs which gave contrasting textures and
tastes.  (Wine: Semillon /Sauvignon Blanc, Fraser Gallop Estate)

Orkney Scallop with Cauliflower

Orkney scallops are one of the treasures of Scottish seafood. Here, the cooking did full justice to this highly prized bivalve.  Accurately timed to produce a seared crust with soft opaque flesh, it retained its essential sweet flavour and succulent texture. Along with a smear of – now ubiquitous – cauliflower puree, the scallop was paired with caramelised cauliflower florets of contrasting texture and dressed with a fragrant, but not overpowering curry oil. These elements complemented each other well and with only three ingredients on the plate, there was nowhere to hide, not that was there was any need with this dish. (Wine: Weitgasse Gruner-Veltliner, Mantelhof)

Ox cheek and mash

Equally accomplished was a course of ox cheek braised in red wine. The meltingly soft texture and deep flavour of the meat, the result of long slow cooking, was enhanced by the addition of mushrooms, baby onions and lardons, giving a bourguignon effect.  Smooth, smoky mash proved the perfect accompaniment, soaking up the rich sauce, more of which was offered separately. (Wine: Pinot Noir, Garzon Single Vineyard)

Key Lime Pie

Finally, key lime pie proved a suitably light, tangy dessert
to end the meal. The lime curd had a good balance of sweet and sharp flavours,
whilst coconut sorbet provided a refreshing counterpoint. Shards of meringue
gave height and crispness to this well-conceived and attractively presented
dessert of contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures.

Good coffee and petit fours completed a memorable meal. It
was enhanced by the welcoming, knowledgeable, efficient and unobtrusive service
led by manager Adshead who also selected the flight of wines and gave a
succinct description of each. His extensive experience at other top Edinburgh
hotels ensured the service would be seamless.

Paul Tamburrini’s restaurant has entered a highly
competitive market in the gastronomic capital. Given the strengths demonstrated
on our visit, its chances for long term success are strong. Fine Dining Guide
will revisit to sample other dishes from the menu and will follow its progress
with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide


February 24, 2019

Revelations: Dominic Jack, chef owner, Castle Terrace Restaurant, Edinburgh

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Revelations: Dominic Jack, chef owner, Castle Terrace Restaurant, Edinburgh

https://ift.tt/eA8V8J

What was your best subject at school?
Like most other chefs, it was home economics

from
The Caterer by


February 23, 2019

Book review: Mirazur by Mauro Colagreco

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Book review: Mirazur by Mauro Colagreco

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When Alain Ducasse called up Mirazur’s Mauro Colagreco after the site was handed its second Michelin star in 2010, the legendary French chef told him: “Congratulations – now it’s over. It’s time to get to work”.

from
The Caterer by


February 23, 2019

Recipe of the week: Squab, spelt, wild strawberries

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Recipe of the week: Squab, spelt, wild strawberries

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Serves four

from
The Caterer by


February 23, 2019

London’s Top Restaurants (Feb 2019)

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London’s Top Restaurants (Feb 2019)

Guides 2019
Three Leading Inspector-led Guides

Below is a formula applied to the scores in leading guides to discover the top 100 (one hundred) restaurants in London. This is up-to-date as at February 2019.

The weighting is toward Michelin with six points per Michelin star, three points per Waitrose Good Food Guide mark out of ten and two points per AA Restaurant Guide Rosette.  The number in brackets under Waitrose GFG is the position in their 2019 published list of Top 50 Restaurants of Great Britain.

Top London Restaurants 1 to 37
…and 38 to 75
…and 76 to 102

from Fine Dining Guide


February 23, 2019

Cocktails and dreams: JJ Goodman on shaking up the industry with London Cocktail Club – 11 bars with a reputation for creating chaos

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Cocktails and dreams: JJ Goodman on shaking up the industry with London Cocktail Club – 11 bars with a reputation for creating chaos

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Its debut was launched on a shoestring, but today the London Cocktail Club operates 11 sites and has branched out of its eponymous city. JJ Goodman talks to Vincent Wood about being inspired by the greats, giving his employees tools for the future and, most importantly, having a laugh

from
The Caterer by


February 22, 2019

To each their own: Elior and Vita Mojo offer mass catering for individual tastes

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To each their own: Elior and Vita Mojo offer mass catering for individual tastes

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For many, contract catering means cooking up huge batches of the same thing for all diners. But companies like Elior are looking to the future and calling in brands such as Vita Mojo to provide each customer with a personalised touch to their lunch. Vincent Wood reports

from
The Caterer by


February 22, 2019

Scotland and Wales Top Restaurants (Feb 2019)

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Scotland and Wales Top Restaurants (Feb 2019)

Guides 2019
Three leading Inspector Led Guides

Below is a formula applied to the scores in leading guides to discover the top 30 (thirty) restaurants in Scotland and leading restaurants of Wales. This is up-to-date as at February 2019.

The weighting is toward Michelin with six points per Michelin star, three points per Waitrose Good Food Guide mark out of ten and two points per AA Restaurant Guide Rosette.  The number in brackets under GFG is the position in their 2019, Top 50 of Great Britain published list.

Top 30 Restaurants in Scotland
Top Restaurants in Wales

from Fine Dining Guide


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