Interview: David O’Connor & Joe Mercer Nairne, Medlar (March 2020)

Fine Dining Guide had the pleasure of interviewing David O’Connor (right) and Joe Mercer Nairne (left), who in April 2021 will be celebrating 10 years as the proud owners of the restaurant at 438 King’s Road, Chelsea. The partnership that gave birth to Medlar Restaurant was the coming together of two fine exponents of their trade from the Nigel Platts-Martin group of restaurants: David, with a calm authority and unassuming charm in front of house and Joe a rising star in the kitchen at Chez Bruce.   They both found time to sit down and discuss their journey with Daniel Darwood in an interview that took place during late February 2020 at Medlar Restaurant.

How did David come to open Medlar with Joe?

David always imagined running his own
restaurant but envisioned his home of the Wirral.  His parents had owned a restaurant in Heswall
so he was steeped in the trade. His career, however, took a turn to London.
David met the then sous chef, Joe Mercer Nairne, at Chez Bruce in Wandsworth
Common. They hit it off straight away and shared the same ambition, so it was
only natural that they should join forces. The search for a site took in Turnham Green
and Farringdon, where they faced competitive bids from wealthy chains, before
settling on The King’s Road.  The chosen site had the benefit of proximity
to Sloane Square, along with a history of longevity of businesses on and around
the site.  David and Joe could also move forward with financial
independence which would free up their decision making going forward.

Who have proven your greatest mentor(s) and what have they taught you?

David’s early front of house training came at
a privately-owned hotel, managed by his brother.  His career would gather significant pace under
Patrick Fischnaller, General Manager at Orrery in Marylebone High Street.  The ambition of the restaurant combined with
the level of intensity of service meant he learned so much so quickly – concentration, speed of thought,
technical service skills – high standards at all times were demanded, which
stretched him to the limit. Indeed, such was the success of this
training that each of the front of house team subsequently opened their own
businesses!

At the two Michelin starred The Square
restaurant, which itself was delivering relentlessly high standards, David was
hired as a chef de rang.  Restaurant
manager Jacques Carlino taught him the art of creating regulars from customers. In an
almost exclusively French Front of House team, “the English Waiter” was trusted
to engage in discussion with the well-heeled clientele. David feels that
perhaps his biggest gratitude has been owed to Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts
Martin, the owners who nurtured his potential by providing his first management
role at a sister restaurant in the group, Michelin starred Chez Bruce.  Having proven himself in every way, several
years later, the vacancy came up to go back to The Square as restaurant
manager, David took the opportunity with both hands.  Always learning on the job, as well as
dedicating his otherwise leisure time, David’s management skills continued to blossom
over twelve years with the group, establishing him as a national leader in his
field. The natural next step was his own business.

For Joe, places he liked to eat would be
places where he wanted to work. He enjoyed his time as sous chef with Bruce
Poole at Chez Bruce and also travelled to Australia where he worked with Neil
Perry at Rockpool in Sydney. Experience at Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill proved
the hardest place to work, engendering a solid discipline and work ethic,
something he has subsequently felt confident to ask of others. He laments these
traits are lacking amongst many of the current generation of chefs, who look
for the easiest route to success without undergoing the often repetitive work
that each section requires.

What is the structure of the brigade at Medlar?

David and long standing assistant Voula
oversee the front of house team, managing reception, taking orders and ensuring
guests are comfortable and happy. Waiters are allocated tables in two or three
sections. Sommeliers are given scope either to converse knowledgeably with wine
connoisseurs or to address more modest requests. The unsung heroes are the runners who bring food from the
basement kitchen, drinks and coffee from the first floor bar, and collect wine
from fourth floor wine cellar.

In
the kitchen there are five sections with one chef on each. The chefs move
around each section as required. There are 10 chefs on a rota with a natural
turnover. Happily, Joe’s two sous chefs have been with him since opening,
ensuring high quality and consistency of the finished product.

What would you say makes great service from the front of house?

David
is uncompromising in his pursuit of friendly, professional, welcoming,
attentive and unobtrusive service.  Staff
are trusted to enhance the guest experience by improvisation through to reading
the customer’s preferences.  The flexibility
afforded to the staff avoids a stilted, formulaic approach.  Essentially David’s mantra is to get the
basics absolutely right and the magic dust of customer interaction will add
value naturally.

What
proportion of your clientele are locals and regulars?

At least 75% are locals and regulars at most services, something which makes David and Joe proud but not complacent. They agree that the essential pre-requisite for repeat custom is consistent delivery of high quality food and service, a complete hospitality package.

What is your view of Trip Advisor?

The biggest compliment customers can pay
after an enjoyable meal is to post an online review. Trip Advisor is used to
access feedback and reviews, which are mostly positive, rather than a means to
interact with customers. Negative reviews are investigated internally as far as
possible. Experience suggests that 90% of mistakes usually occur if the service
team fail to recognize a potential issue, which when continuing unnoticed, may fester
and lead to repetition or escalation of the issue. To fix any potential
challenges, positive action by a competent and perceptive front of house will
prevent any further escalation and resolve them immediately – essential with
the more demanding customers.

Joe, what inspired you to become a chef?

Joe’s curiosity about food, born of
enjoyment but with no cooking skills to match, resulted in two terms at Leith’s
Cookery School and a kitchen job after he graduated from Oxford. Although not a
chef junkie, he enjoyed watching
repeat series of Keith Floyd and Rick Stein, which combined travel with
cookery.

Where have you worked and what did you
learn along the way?

Joe enjoyed the chef lifestyle, if not the
type of cooking, in his first position at Carluccio’s – then a much smaller
operation – which inspired him
to continue with a career with a focus in high end restaurants. Joe enjoyed the
classical training of the Savoy Grill, and whilst the hours were long and punishing,
it instilled a belief in everyone there that they could cope with just about
anything.   The structure was similar at
Savoy, Chez Bruce and Rockpool.  Perhaps
the Savoy was slightly more hierarchical, but he enjoyed working at all of
them.  All three of the kitchens
instilled great discipline and work ethic: 
Something which younger chefs today seem as if they would like to do without.

How would you describe your cuisine
style and how often does the menu change?

Joe’s style is based on the core principles
of French brasserie cooking, elevated and refined with his own spin. Joe enjoys
eating at the great Parisian brasseries where the cooking of classic dishes
such as duck confit is irreproachable. 
Menus at Medlar reflect the seasons, although signature dishes remain
throughout the year. There are occasional international influences, the Asian
ones being learnt at Rockpool in Sydney. True to his love of offal, Joe
sometimes offers lamb tongues or sweetbreads, despite their increasing cost and
difficulty in sourcing. 

Describe three of your signature dishes and explain why they have been particularly successful

Duck egg tart is, for Joe, his most prized
dish, which had been evolving since his Chez Bruce days.  It is a take on the brasserie staple oeufs en
murette.  Fried duck eggs replace poached
hen’s eggs, a crisp pastry base substitutes for fried crutons, turnip puree and
sautéed duck hearts are innovations, whilst meaty lardons and a deeply
flavoured red wine sauce remain. 

Crab raviolo which was only meant to stay
on the menu temporarily, given there were many similar dishes available
elsewhere, has proved a winner, accounting for at least 50% of the starters
ordered. The silky pasta is generously filled with white crab meat, the brown
meat incorporated in the rich bisque. Dressed with samphire, brown shrimps, and
a fondue of leeks, this labour-intensive dish, not easily made at home, remains
a popular favourite.

Rump or
under blade of Belted Galloway, served at dinner or lunch respectively, is
another popular main course. Under blade in particular is a reasonably priced,
difficult to source cut favoured by the kitchen. Cooked medium rare for full
flavour, and served with café de Paris snails, stuffed portobello mushroom,
shallot puree, a rich jus and bearnaise sauce, it is served with a side of
lightly dressed frisee to give freshness. A composite dish in itself, most
diners will order a side of triple cooked chips (enough for two) to complete
the gastronomic experience.

How value for money is achieved?

Both David and Joe agree that if customers leave not hungry, fully satisfied with the food and service, then value for money has been achieved. This applies to all levels of restaurant – it is the quality of the experience not the amount on the bill which is relevant.

What are your plans for the future?

David will consider expansion – perhaps a
coffee shop, pub or another restaurant – if the correct opportunity arises. He
prefers London, but is not averse to country pub location. Joe who lives in
Putney when working but whose family is based in Winchester, would prefer to
expand within the capital, where he can keep his highly experienced team.

Overall David and Joe have forged a winning business partnership –
Medlar restaurant is widely recognised in London as a reliably high quality,
restaurant delivering first class hospitality in a relaxed atmosphere with the
finest classical food.  Long may it
continue!   

from Fine Dining Guide

Chef Interview: Tom Kitchin, (March 2020)

What
inspired you to become a chef?

I started working in kitchens at the age of 13, doing the dishes and
working my way to the starters. I loved being in the kitchen and saw it as a
gateway to leaving school. I
then left school at 16 to attend cooking college, followed by an
apprenticeship at Gleneagles hotel when I was 17. It was tough but
was really inspired me to continue working in kitchens.

Where have you worked and what did you learn along the way?

I’ve been fortunate enough to work in some
of Europe’s leading kitchens, including La Tante Claire in
London under Pierre Koffmann and Guy Savoy in Paris as well as Le
Louis XV in Monaco under legendary Monsieur Alain
Ducasse.  In 2006 my wife and I opened
our first restaurant, The Kitchin, in Edinburgh and since then we’ve opened
four more. I’ve had an incredible journey, one that has
allowed me to learn all about different cultures and ways of life and I feel
that has all really helped make me the chef I am today. 

Describe three signature dishes

Starter: Rockpool
A rockpool of local seafood, sea vegetables, ginger and a Newhaven shellfish consommé.

Main: Roe Deer
Roasted loin and braised haunch of roe deer from the Borders, salt baked neeps, rhubarb and red wine sauce

Dessert: Rhubarb crumble souffle

Talk generally about the provenance of ingredients in your kitchen

We’re so lucky with the variety of local produce and local suppliers available in the area; we have some of the best produce in the UK on our doorstep.  The high-quality produce available here in Scotland allows us to be more innovative with our recipes and cooking methods. The variety of produce available means we have such large a range of ingredients to work with, for example; freshly caught lobsters from the fishermen’s boat, or game which has just been shot that day and brought in by the gamekeeper straight to our doorstep.  

What are your plans for the future?

I don’t tend to make plans, I like to take each day
and new venture as they come, assessing opportunities along the way. I just
want to make sure all my businesses are running as efficiently as possible and
my family are happy.

from Fine Dining Guide

Review: Feathered Nest, Nether Westcote, Oxon. (Mar 2020)

The Feathered Nest, a food-led restaurant with rooms, has been under new ownership with a new head chef since August 2019. Adam Taylor, chief executive of Nested Hospitality, and Michelin starred Matt Weedon are aiming to exceed the pre-existing high reputation for food, service and accommodation. Between them, they have a wealth of experience to make their new venture a success. Adam’s passion for hospitality, especially regarding polo events, has taken him across the world but The Feathered Nest realises his dream of having his own restaurant. In Matt Weedon he has a master chef of distinguished pedigree, having won Michelin stars at Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire and Lords of the Manor in Gloucestershire. 

Situated on the edge of the tiny Oxfordshire village of
Nether Westcote, six miles from the historic market town of Burford, The
Feathered Nest’s location in the heart of the Cotswolds boasts panoramic views
over the Evenlode valley, best admired from the attractive terrace and extensive
gardens. Off the beaten track, it became a destination restaurant with three AA
rosettes under the previous ownership, a status already retained under the new
ownership.

Housed in a handsomely restored 17^th Century malthouse,
complete with oak beams and stone floors, The Feathered Nest is entered through
a traditional bar area leading to small lounge with leather chairs and sofas
around a stone fireplace. Beyond is the main restaurant with its well-spaced
tables, the lower level with banquette seating spilling out to the terrace. All
three areas exude a comforting, relaxed informality.

With a maximum of 75 covers across the various dining areas and a staff of 15, this is a serious operation. Changes have been gradual to minimise disruption but the decision to offer lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday (as well as Sunday lunch) is an astute one, promoting a good work-life balance amongst the staff, helping to ensure consistency in the kitchen and front of house.  Community supper clubs and Sunday music nights have been introduced to retain existing patrons and encourage new ones.

Whilst retaining high-end cuisine, there is now a more flexible approach to the food offering. The same menu is available in all three areas, so patrons can opt for a six-course tasting menu or a single dish from the carte. Dishes from a bar board are also on offer.

Seasonality. sustainability and locality, given their
unquestioned quality of the region’s produce, are key facets of the menus.
Indeed, Matt, who lives in the next village, and has been a regular patron of
The Feathered Nest before becoming Head Chef, intends to extend the range of
local suppliers.

Matt Weedon’s cuisine is unashamedly classical, forsaking
faddish trends and gimmicky flourishes. There are some contemporary touches but
these are kept in moderation. Fundamentally, cooking techniques are highly
polished, with precise timing, judicious seasoning and accomplished saucing.
Dishes reflect a harmonious combination of ingredients, with balance in tastes,
textures and temperatures. Attention to detail, which helps elevate each dish,
is immaculate. Portions are generous whilst presentation is clean and
uncluttered, each item on the plate serving a distinct purpose.

The a la carte menu is extensive enough to showcase the chef’s
range but short enough to ensure consistency. Five starters (£14 to £22) and
five mains (£28 to £38) are supplemented by two steaks from the Josper grill (£29
to £70 for two) and four desserts (£9 to £18 for two) and a cheese option. (£12)
A six-course tasting menu (£65) featuring smaller portions taken from the
carte, is the best introduction to Matt’s cuisine. Prices are realistic and
fair, considering the quality of the produce and the expertise in cooking. Meals
will also include complementary amuse bouches, home baked breads and pre
dessert.

The wine list is ambitious and international, with a focus on France and Italy but with a good selection of New World vintages.

A weekday dinner in February captured the essential
qualities of the food and service offering. A warm welcome by owner Adam
Taylor, who also acts as front of house, put us at our ease and provided useful
background information on the new regime.

Anthony, the engaging Restaurant Manager, ensured the
seamless service was helpful, informative and unobtrusive.

The meal began with an amuse bouche of cornets of local
estate curried lamb breast, yogurt, apricot puree and cucumber. This proved a
delectable and dainty combination of savoury and sweet flavours with soft and
crisp textures. It certainly whetted the appetite for the subsequent courses.

Next came a silky smooth and deeply flavoured soup of
butternut squash and cauliflower, dressed with coriander oil for a contrasting
herbal hit. Of the two miniature loaves served with it, the warm Guinness
sourdough was outstanding in its malty sweetness and soft texture. These came
with soft home churned butter and marmite beef dripping and lighter rapeseed
oil and raspberry vinegar

A starter paired grilled chicken wings with home-smoked eel. The soft textured glazed boneless chicken worked well with the oily richness of the cured eel. The dish was enlivened by dots of hoisin sauce, the strong savouriness of which was moderated by the sweetness of the compressed carrot. Finely sliced cucumber and spring onion added freshness and crispness to this deceptively simple dish with Chinese influences.  

Next, pork was shellfish partnered with pork. Long, slow-cooked Oxford and sandy black pig’s cheek produced meltingly soft, full-flavoured meat in contrast to the accurately timed Orkney scallops with their seared crusts and sweet, translucent flesh. Celeriac puree gave a gentle aniseed taste, balanced by caramelised apple. The necessary crisp element was provided by crumbled pork crackling.

A beef main course was not for the faint hearted. A fillet
of Aberdeen Angus was cooked medium to maximise its elegant, subtle flavour and
tender succulence. Partnered with rich, boldly flavoured ballotine of oxtail,
this combination was a carnivor’s delight. Equal attention was paid to the
veritable cornucopia of vegetables:  smooth smoked mash and crisp potato wheel; sautéed
morel mushrooms; onions and carrots in beef dripping; and vibrant kale and
tenderstem broccoli. Finished with a powerful red wine sauce, this dish
exemplified classical cooking at its elevated best.

Equally accomplished was the seafood main course. A fillet
of roasted halibut – a fish notorious for drying out if not treated with
respect – was timed to perfection, giving firm flakes of delicately flavoured white
flesh. This was accompanied by a raviolo of langoustines, the thin, silky pasta
encasing the sweet crustacean bound in a shellfish mousse. But the star of the
dish was an exquisite shellfish bisque, light but fully flavoured and lifted
with the addition of vanilla and a well-judged degree of acidity to balance its
richness. Chargrilled leeks provided a smoky, mild onion taste and crisp
texture which complemented the other elements well.

A pre dessert of banana, apple and passion fruit curd,
topped with pina colada foam and coconut tuile proved a refreshing and light
palate cleanser.

For dessert we shared a tarte tatin of pear, well worth the
advertised 25 minutes wait. The puff pastry was exemplary in its buttery taste
and flaky texture, whilst the use of pear instead of the usual apple gave a
degree of acidity to balance the caramelised fruit. Pear sorbet rather than ice
cream and blackberry gel also helped to cut the richness of the dish. For those
who wished for further indulgence, two contrasting sauces – mildly bitter
caramel and vanilla custard were also offered separately.

Good coffee and chocolate teacakes by the open fire
completed a memorable meal which exceeded our already high expectations.
Clearly, Matt Weedon’s cooking goes from strength to strength, fully justifying
the accolades he has won.

The Cotswolds is a highly competitive market, bursting with
food led restaurants with rooms. However, only the best will survive as
destination venues, largely due to the quality of their food. The Feathered
Nest undoubtedly takes its place in this elite group. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed
its visit, will definitely revisit, and will follow with interest its progress
in the national restaurant guides. We wish Adam, Matt and their team every
success.

from Fine Dining Guide

Press Release: AA Rosette Awards January 2020

AA ANNOUNCES NEW ROSETTE AWARD WINNERS

UK restaurants awarded with the highest recognition of culinary excellence

London. 17^th February 2020. The AA has announced its latest Rosette Award winners, recognising the restaurants offering the highest culinary standard in the UK and Ireland. Two restaurants have been awarded four AA Rosettes, while a further eleven have been awarded three AA Rosettes.

Restaurants honoured with four AA Rosettes are Alchemilla (Nottingham) and The Lady Helen Restaurant (Thomastown, Co. Kilkenny), while those awarded three AA Rosettes include Jason Atherton’s No. 5 Social (London), Paschoe House (Crediton, Devon) and Edinbane Lodge (Edinbane, Highlands).

Establishments with three AA Rosettes are all outstanding restaurants achieving standards that demand national recognition well beyond their local area. Those awarded four AA Rosettes are among the top restaurants in the country.

Simon Numphud, Managing Director at AA Media said “We are thrilled to recognise hotels and restaurants achieving such high standards of culinary excellence. Congratulations to these establishments and their staff, who demonstrate the variety and high quality of dining experiences offered across the UK and Ireland.”  

New four AA Rosettes:

Alchemilla, Nottingham, Nottinghamshire 

The Lady Helen Restaurant, Thomastown, Co. Kilkenny

New three AA Rosettes:

Cavendish Hotel, Baslow, Derbyshire

Edinbane Lodge, Edinbane, Highlands

Hammet @ Castell Malgwyn, Llechryd, Ceredigion

No.5 Social, London W1

Paschoe House, Crediton, Devon

Siren, London SW1

The Ollerod, Beaminster, Dorset

The Pass Restaurant, Lower Beeding, West Sussex

The Yorke Arms, Pateley Bridge, North Yorkshire

Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room, Egham, Surrey

Wild Honey St James, London SW1

The AA has awarded Rosettes to restaurants since 1956, with the top award of five Rosettes introduced in 1991. The multi rosettes are awarded bi-annually in January and September, with success determined by one or more visits by an AA inspector to a hotel or restaurant.

4 Rosettes

The Lady Helen Restaurant Thomastown, County Kilkenny

Skilful Modern Irish dishes in a grand Georgian setting

The Mount Juliet is a fine example of the Georgian country house and estate, offering spa treatments and golf in addition to inspirational fine dining in the Lady Helen Restaurant. Named after previous owner Lady Helen McCalmont, it’s a coolly elegant, high-ceilinged room with intricate plasterwork and magnificent windows overlooking the grounds. Attention to detail is second to none and produce from the estate often features in chef John Kelly’s modern Irish cooking. Dinner might begin with a single, silky raviolo, stuffed with black truffle-studded potato and accompanied by a fine parmesan cream, followed by breast of Anjou squab pigeon, served on York cabbage, topped with hen of the woods and toasted hazelnuts, and finished with a rich, glossy veal jus, alongside a bowl of the braised leg and thigh meat. Caramelised banana ice cream is a deceptively simple dessert, served with tonka bean cremeux and brightly coloured, astringent calamansi gel.

Alchemilla Nottingham, Nottinghamshire

Innovative tasting menus in an impressively renovated space

A wall of green foliage is the only real clue in daylight that you’ve found this almost hidden gem. A former coach house, derelict for a century and a half, with bare brick walls, an arched ceiling and light flooding down from huge skylights onto the simply presented wooden tables and open kitchen. This is modern cookery of the best kind, supported by an understanding of classic techniques, and with an inspired take on the plant-based elements of dishes. Barbecue flavours might feature in a memorable starter of celeriac, finished in goats’ butter and topped with fresh herbs, an earthy, tender dish that packs a real punch. Moroccan lamb is served pink, with burnt aubergine, pomegranate and molasses, sticky-sweet and complex, and a colourful apricot and tea puree. A quenelle of shakshuka pulls the dish together brilliantly. Finish with creamy chocolate gelato, salted liquorice custard and a vibrant beetroot sorbet. Petits fours are top notch.

3 Rosettes

Cavendish Hotel Baslow, Derbyshire

Fine dining on the Chatsworth Estate

This stylish hotel dates back to the 18th century, and the comfortable public areas are adorned with paintings from the Duke’s extensive art collection. The Gallery restaurant is traditionally decorated with a smart modern twist, and in season menus feature lamb and game from the estate. You might begin with cod loin and satay sauce, cooled by coconut yoghurt. A neatly plated, colourful dish of Moss Valley pork belly comes with homemade black pudding, sage mashed potato, Swiss chard, broccoli and peppered pineapple. ‘Simple presentation and perfect execution’ sums up a dessert of banana, walnut and caramel soufflé with silky dark chocolate sorbet.

Edinbane Lodge Edinbane, Highlands

Dine on tiptop Skye produce in a characterful lodge

The elegant dining room at this luxuriously renovated 16th-century house has an impressive stone fireplace and portraits of past owners, while the seasonal tasting menus showcase the very best produce the island has to offer. A starter of the freshest, plumpest langoustine, served on nicely braised carrot, gets things off to a great start. Next up, a simply presented dish of deliciously fresh Shetland-landed cod with Drumfearn chanterelles. Coishletter venison loin is accompanied by smoked beetroot and a textbook pommes dauphine. A beautifully simple dessert of pineapple weed ice cream with lemon verbena is followed by Isle of Skye sea salt caramel parfait with sorrel.

Hammet @ Castell Malgwyn Llechryd, Ceredigion

Wonderfully stylish setting for equally stylish food

A fabulous, creeper-clad Georgian house with a contemporary interior – neutral colours and a striking art collection combining effectively with intricate period plasterwork and high ceilings. The transparent Perspex chairs in the dining room are pretty cool, and so is the food. Begin with seared monkfish with black garlic – a great flavour combination enhanced by pickled mussel and a smooth pea purée. A beautifully presented main of chicken with girolles, bacon and sweetcorn offers excellent contrasting textures, while a deceptively simple dessert of lemon curd, chantilly cream and honeyed raspberries brings a bold intensity to the close of the meal.

No.5 Social London W1

Stylish modern European dishes at the latest opening from Jason Atherton

In the heart of Mayfair, just across the street from Jason Atherton’s flagship Pollen Street Social, this brand-new restaurant offers an elegant, airy dining room – a warm, relaxing environment with an unstuffy vibe, and the ideal place to experience Atherton’s trademark modern European dishes. A lovely starter of Orkney scallop, set on top of a light avocado mousse, with a scallop tartare and thinly sliced raw courgette, makes for an impressive starter, while a main course of Josper-grilled Ibérico pork chop is succulent and well-seasoned, garnished with little pieces of black pudding and bacon and served with tender braised hispi cabbage.

Paschoe House Crediton, Devon

The cooking steps up a notch at this delightful foodie destination

A luxurious Grade II listed house, set in 25 acres of grounds in a remote Devon valley with cooking that proves to be a creative, effective fusion of Asian and modern British elements. You’ll find this perfectly illustrated by a starter of well-timed lemongrass prawns with pineapple and chilli, served with a beautifully made dim sum. A main of tender Creedy Carver duck is accompanied by a rich, smooth ballotine of foie gras, with blackberries proving an excellent counterpoint – a dish with bags of flavour. A dessert of ‘apple, cider, oats’ makes for an impressively presented and delicious finale. Excellent wine list.

Siren London SW1

Simple, ingredient-led dishes backed by stunning produce

Siren is the latest from piscatorial behemoth Nathan Outlaw, under the direction of head chef Andrew Sawyer. Bi-fold doors open out into a secluded garden; there are marble-topped tables and floral fabrics. Get things going with the sourdough bread, served with seaweed butter, before moving on to a risotto of Cornish crab light, full of flavour, and perfectly timed. You might find whole mackerel with crispy oysters among the specials, the fish of remarkable quality, the oysters a great addition, making for a dish of absolute simplicity and clarity. Finish with a raspberry choux bun with dark chocolate sauce.

The Ollerod Beaminster, Dorset

Country house character and top quality modern British food

Ollerod is a
dialect word for ‘cowslip’, and this charming, quirky building dates
largely to the 13th century. Full of character, it offers plenty of
period details, as well as contemporary furnishings and decor.
Local art and photography can often be seen on display, and there’s a
real emphasis on the best local and seasonal produce, with fish and
seafood from the Dorset coast. A summer menu might feature refreshing
ajo blanco – a chilled almond soup with crab, mango
and grapes, followed by an equally refreshing dish of salmon ceviche
with avocado mousse. Finish with an elderflower cream with poached
gooseberries and a mini doughnut.

The Pass Restaurant Lower Beeding, West Sussex

Stylish, contemporary dining while you watch the kitchen team at work

Taking the
chef’s table concept to its logical conclusion, here the whole
restaurant has been designed round the notion of watching the kitchen.
Twenty-eight lucky diners can either peer though the glass walls or
watch the action on plasma-screen monitors. The space is contemporary,
with high-level tables, lilac and black leather banquettes and swivel
seats, while the cooking is ingredient-led and modern in style. Flavours
are clear and subtle in dishes like Carabinero
prawn risotto, with grapefruit cutting through the richness and
nasturtiums for a peppery hit. An autumn dish of South Downs venison is
wonderfully tender, and black fig and sesame millefeuille rounds things
off nicely.

The Yorke Arms Pateley Bridge, North Yorkshire

Bold, creative cooking in the idyllic Nidderdale Valley

The Yorke
Arms is a splendid restaurant with rooms, in a mouth-watering location.
Mullioned windows look out over wonderful Dales views, bedrooms are
superb, and the restaurant is a long-established foodie destination,
with Frances Atkins’s bold, creative cooking a real draw. Seasonal
menus showcase classical cookery with some confident modern flourishes,
supported by a great wine list. Pumpkin is the star in an autumn
starter, complemented by malt and an impressive verjus
jelly. A pretty main course features vibrant carrot mousse and crisp
artichoke, a great combination enhanced by the freshness of cucumber.
Finish with the excellent ‘Celebration of chocolate’.

Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room Egham, Surrey

Hugely impressive dining in an equally impressive Tudor mansion

Great Fosters is a splendid, many-gabled red-brick Tudor house with 50 acres of gardens and parkland. The main dining room, with its ornately carved fireplace and dramatic 17th-century Flemish tapestry, is an intimate space of just seven tables. Here you’ll find restrained, sophisticated dishes, and fantastic ingredients handled with skill and precision. A starter of Jerusalem artichoke with chestnut and lemon sorrel offers a silky-smooth chestnut purée and great depth of flavour from salt-baked artichoke, while a main of tender venison comes with deliciously creamy celeriac and earthy flavours from baked beetroot. Apple crumble with cinnamon ice cream is pitch perfect.

Wild Honey St James, London SW1

Bringing French style to this splendid West End hotel

Wild Honey’s
move from Mayfair to the Sofitel London St James has resulted in an
airy, high-ceilinged dining room with enormous windows draped in grey
linen, black walls, impressive lighting, and beautiful pale
blue velvet banquettes. This is a slick operation, serving up the
simple, contemporary French-based seasonal cooking for which the
restaurant is so well known. Kick off with the earthy flavours of roast
heritage beetroot, rich black pudding purée and cured
wild boar cheek. A highly successful main of perfectly cooked Welsh
lamb comes with roast salsify, fresh sheep’s ricotta and Italian greens,
while dessert might be a classic English custard tart.

About AA Hotel & Hospitality Services

The AA and Enthuse Holdings Ltd jointly own and operate the business named AA Hotel and Hospitality Services which, among other activities, inspects, rates and publishes information about the hospitality industry including hotels, guest accommodation and restaurants. This includes the renowned star rating quality and rosette schemes and well-established range of lifestyle publications such as the hotel and restaurant guides.

from Fine Dining Guide