Chef Interview: Tom Scade, The Vineyard Hotel, December 2019

[The Vineyard Hotel: Executive Chef Tom Scade]

Chef Tom Scade is introduced on The Vineyard Hotel website as an artistic engineer, one who produces food that is clean and elegant.  From the flow of that introductory piece, it would appear that the adjectives are principally applied to presentation.  Tom earned his stripes in the kitchens of Keith Stanley, multi Michelin starred Martin Blunos before an extended spell under Michelin starred John Williams MBE at The Ritz.  When sampling Tom’s food, one might argue that while clean lines and elegance to the eye are undeniable, to consider this alone would more than underplay his beautifully conceived dishes.

There is an abundance of depth of clean flavours alongside elegance in the balance and harmony of flavour on a plate.  Indeed, such a combination only occurs with the mastery of multi-stage cooking techniques. Taste, texture, temperature and presentation are all well considered in dish construction.  To further optimise kitchen output, the inputs must be well chosen, too.  To this end Tom views that while local is good, best is best when it comes to selecting produce for a menu, a mantra followed by a significant proportion of the elite level chefs.  In 2018, Tom was recognised as the winner of the Le Taittinger Prix Culinaire before coming third in the world finals later that year.

[Tom Scade’s trout dish demonstrates a depth of clean flavours, mastery of cooking technique and balance on a plate]

At The Vineyard Hotel, Tom is seeking to deliver one of Sir Peter Michael’s passions, that is the marriage of fine wine with the art of gastronomy. Sir Peter, who was the founder of Classic FM, is passionate about wine, food, music, art and good company.  He acquired The Vineyard Hotel property in 1996, launching under its current guise in 1998.  Beautiful pieces of art and sculpture from Sir Peter’s private collection feature around the hotel, alongside a visually stunning cellar stocked with premium wines, many of which have come from Sir Peter’s own vineyards in California. 

[The Vineyard Hotel]

Over the twenty plus years since its opening, Andrew McKenzie’s stewardship of Sir Peter’s UK portfolio of properties has gone from strength to strength. Widely recognised as a leader in his field, his curriculum vitae includes the prestigious Hotelier of the Year Award. With unerring dedication, Andrew steers the group toward success through excellence.  This is seen none more so, than in the gastronomic offerings found at The Vineyard over the years. In fact, Shay Cooper, Nathan Outlaw, Matt Gillan, Richard Davies, John Campbell, Daniel Galmiche and Billy Reid joined Robby Jenks as the roll call of chefs who had cooked at The Vineyard, where each delivered a service from June 25th, 2018 to July 1st, 2018. This formed the successful twenty-year celebration that was christened ‘Back to the Vine.’

Fast
forward to today and Tom Scade is the latest addition to this honourable
brigade and speaks to Simon Carter of fine-dining-guide about his journey in
the chef world to date and how he seeks to extend the happy culinary history of
The Vineyard Hotel and help to fulfil its Eat, Sleep, Drink Wine philosophy.

[Tom Scade constructing the trout dish during service]

At 16, Tom
won a scholarship to Royal Academy of Culinary Arts apprenticeship training in
Bournemouth.  For his placement he went
to London to work for Keith Stanley at Langan’s Coq d’Or in London where he
remained for the following three and a half years. Tom gained invaluable
experience across all the sections, believing that it takes a year to learn how
to work in a professional kitchen before each promotion across sections brings
a new challenge and a new discomfort. 
“Perhaps when you are comfortable in all aspects of the kitchen, you
have reached a point where you will benefit from learning from another kitchen,
but not before,” Tom reflects, “In fact many chefs today want to progress far
too quickly without having learned all the fundamentals.”

Before the
arrival of John Williams from Claridge’s, Keith Stanley was Head Chef at The
Ritz.  By coincidence, Tom’s best friend had
served his apprenticeship working at Claridge’s under John Williams, so when
the time came to move on, he had the benefit of two recommendations of where to
take the next step.

The
beginning of what turned out to be a four-year first spell at The Ritz was very
tough indeed and Tom doesn’t mind admitting that for the first couple of weeks
he shed a tear or two.  Then, one day he
was saucing a dish and Chef Williams said “you’ve got it now, lad.” Tom
realised that he had found his feet and from then onwards, his confidence naturally
grew. This is somewhat symbolic of the high regard in which John Williams is
held among his peers; a manager, mentor and motivator with an instinctive touch
that from numerous accounts continues to encourage his many protégés long after
they have left his kitchen.

In 2009, at
the age of 24, Tom wanted to try running small restaurant kitchens and achieved
a Bib Gourmand at The Bee pub in Windlesham before heading down to Cornwall and
taking the property in Rock that would later become Paul Ainsworth’s outlet.  Tom learned how to run a business the hard
way, including the challenges of the ups and downs of very seasonal demand,
while multi-tasking well beyond the four walls of a kitchen.  With some relief, Tom joined Martin Blunos,
at Blunos in Bath where “his pure love of cooking was reignited” and he once
again enjoyed an environment where he had peers to work with and learn
alongside. In 2015, Tom joined the opening of The Crab and Boar in
Chieveley.  On one service, he was to have
a first chance meeting with Andrew McKenzie. Tom was cooking for a large party (of
over twenty) that included Andrew as a guest. 
The group found the food impressive and that it far exceeded high
expectations.  So, when Tom came to the
table after the meal, he exchanged cards with Andrew, something that would
return to benefit him some years later.  

Tom was
getting married to a wife in the army and was expecting them to be posted to
Canada when the week before the wedding, his wife was posted to London. This
led to a career rethink and Tom once again spoke to John Williams. During his
time away from The Ritz kitchen, he had learned not only how to run a business
but also aspects of being a head chef as well as significant creative learning
from other influences. John explained to Tom that he had a vacant Sous Chef role.
Spencer Metzger was leaving The Ritz for L’Enclume but was to return less than
a year later. Together, the three Sous Chefs of Deepak Mallya, Spencer Metzger
and Tom were to motivate each other in the newly Michelin starred kitchen.  Tom sees both Spencer and Deepak as important
inspirational figures in his career to date and he was to spend a happy two and
a half years working in that kitchen.  In
June 2019, Tom joined The Vineyard Hotel as Executive Chef.

[The Vineyard Hotel dining room]

Tom now
oversees a brigade of twenty-two chefs, where the first challenge is in the
organisation.  Tom’s current team face a
similar task to The Ritz (although on a smaller scale) in that everything comes
out of one kitchen.  Tom’s mandate is to
ensure that all aspects of the hotel – from main restaurant to spa, from
conferencing to room service, from afternoon tea to banqueting to The California
Bar will all receive a consistent, high quality product. Andrew McKenzie adds
that key ingredients of Tom’s successful application were “his demonstrable
appreciation of the need for structure as well as organisation, discipline and
attention to detail in running a five-star hotel kitchen.” 

The main
restaurant front of house is well served with efficient, knowledgeable but
unobtrusive staff who also understand the imperative of gentle conversation
with an engaging smile.  Consistency
across the whole hotel F&B operation is a mantra, highlighted by the
customer food and service experience in the main dining room.

[The Vineyard Hotel wine cellar]

The Vineyard remains a self-described wine-led hotel.  The cellar boasts 30,000 bottles which are ably managed by Head Sommelier, Romain Bourger, the current UK Sommelier of The Year.  The wine-led element means that certain wines will be showcased, with the food created to complement the wine.  Having said this, the relationship of wine to food works out as roughly equal; wine will be paired with food created by Tom for the à la carte menu of the hotel dining room. 

[“After The Upset”: Sir Peter Michael (far left) looks on at The Judgement of Paris]

The menus are impressive, ‘The Judgement of Paris’ which in line with the 1976 event, features a comparative blind tasting of French and Californian wines alongside a collection of matched dishes.  There is a five starter, five mains, five desserts à la carte which will gradually introduce slightly simplified dishes such as smoked salmon, oysters and a fillet of beef to appeal to the breadth of a hotel audience. The set lunch at three courses with four choices per course is a steal at £29 per head.

Tom’s ambition is to drive forward The Vineyard Hotel’s gastronomic offering in the context of the hotel strategy, which no doubt will follow over the coming months and years.  His blank cheque restaurant visit would be Maison Pic in Valence, which has been a family business since 1889.  Their strapline is “three generations, three stars.” A chef family of international acclaim with current custodian Anne-Sophie Pic a wise choice for a special occasion meal. The evidence of the meal at The Vineyard as well as the interview meeting, was of a chef with a great touch, a mastery of classical technique and an eye to relevance in the present and future.  Good luck to Tom and The Vineyard Hotel and fine dining guide will continue to follow their paths with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide

Restaurant Review: Merienda, Edinburgh (Nov 2019)

Merienda,
meaning a small snack, is a 20 cover restaurant serving small plates of
Mediterranean inspired food which opened in 2018. This year it was awarded a
Bib Gourmand by Michelin, acknowledging its value for money. Located in
Stockbridge, a fashionable area of Edinburgh already crowded with a range of
eateries, it entered a highly competitive market but has held its own after
receiving plaudits in the Edinburgh and Scottish press.

The
restaurant is the creation of chef/owner Campbell Mickel, who already had a
thriving high end corporate catering firm. After major heart surgery, from
which he was given a 3% chance of survival, he remained a live wire – forgive
the pun – seeing the cathartic experience as the trigger to open his first
restaurant after 35 years of cooking.

Not that
a Merienda represents a major slowing down of pace. Open for lunch and dinner
five days a week, and with a monthly changing menu of up to 30 dishes, the pressure
on cooking, coupled with the need to be creative, is ever present. With the aim
of showcasing the finest Scottish produce, their availability dictates the menu
composition.

High
quality ingredients, including cheese, charcuterie, smoked products, poultry
and meats are sourced from small artisan producers around Scotland and the Islands.
Similarly, wine comes from small producers around the Mediterranean, selected
to match the changing menus. Scottish craft beers, high end Scottish spirits and
Scottish soft drinks complete the drinks offering.

Housed in
what was once a farmhouse dating back to 1650, the bright, tall ceilinged room
contains the dining area, bar and semi open kitchen. Designed by the owner, the
décor has a panelled “soft” effect on one side, and an “industrial, hard” brick
like effect on the bar and kitchen side. Tables and chairs in white are well
spaced

Teaming
up with Robbie Probert, formerly of the Michelin starred 21212, the influence
of which is seen in the presentation of some of the dishes, Campbell has
created an attractive formula in which guests can create their own tasting
menu.

[Chef Robbie Probert and Chef/Owner Campbell Mickel]

For a
small kitchen with two chefs, the number of dishes on the monthly changing menu
is impressive: the November menu is divided into seven “Staples” (£3 to £9.50);
five “Fields and Gardens” (£4 to £7.50); five “Rivers and Seas” (£8.20 to £8.50);
five

“Farms
and Pastures” (£7.90 to £8.50); and three “Sweetness” (all at £7)

[Merienda Sample Menu]

Given the
quality of the ingredients, and the skill in cooking, prices are realistic.
They compare favourably with other small plate restaurants, as The Bib Gourmand
confirms.  Whilst the dishes on the Staples
section are large enough to share, it is advisable to order one’s own meat and
fish courses as they tend to be smaller and likely to cause food envy if not
shared.

Staples
priced from £3 to £9.50 varied in flavour and texture, some being more
successful than others.

Patatas
Bravas (£5.90), satisfied the most: freshly cooked with a crisp, spiced crust
and soft fluffy centre, a generous bowlful was served with a strong garlicy
aioli. Pickled Lombardi peppers, served with herbs of Provence olives, (£3), were
crisp with a more rounded, sweet flavour that offset their natural fiery heat.
Padron peppers (£6.50) roasted in olive oil with smoked sea salt were suitably
charred with good flavour. Serrano ham was rich and salty, being well matched
with slices of nutty, mild lightly sweet Manchego cheese. (£7).

Other staples
had strengths and weaknesses. Focaccia (£3) had an airy texture and good salt
crust but the advertised rosemary flavour was rather muted. An olive oil dip
would also have helped. Hummus blended with Bull’s blood beetroot (£6.50) had
vibrant colour but was  requiring an
acidic lift. The accompanying toasted Pitta bread was crisp but lacked garlic
flavour. These are relatively minor hiccups which need little to rectify.

Much
better were the fish and meat courses, showing imagination, creativity and
accuracy in cooking. Both fish dishes employed well sourced Mediterranean
produce but reflected Japanese influence in presentation.

Roast
Octopus, (£8.50) featured small, meaty slices of perfectly cooked tentacle –
soft, delicate and well flavoured. It worked well with a rich, nutty and
slightly sweet pistachio puree, fragrant basil oil and micro herbs. Finished
with dots of red cabbage puree, this was a well-conceived and visually stunning
dish.

Equally accomplished
was a dish of Tuna carpaccio (£8.50). The ultra-thin, almost transparent,
slices of stunningly fresh raw fish melted in the mouth. Grated radish gave a
contrasting texture which complemented the delicate fish. Blue Spirulina, a
non-fishy tasting algae, added a blaze of colour if not flavour. Lobster
vinaigrette provided the necessary acidity to this attractively plated course. 

Game, so
easily overcooked to become tough and dry, was cooked well here. A breast of pheasant
(£8.50) was accurately timed to retain its moistness and soft texture. Puy
lentils cooked al dente added a peppery note which complemented the gentle
gaminess of the pheasant. A deeply flavoured Grand Veneur sauce brought the
elements together well.

Better
still was the pork belly dish (£7.90). Slow cooked and glazed with honey and
garlic, resulting in meat that was meltingly soft and full of flavour, this was
a porcine treat. Apple chutney gave a spicy, sweet and sour note, working well
with the rich, succulent pork. Despite the monthly changing menu, this is
likely to be a popular dish that would be difficult to take off.

To
finish, Panna Cotta (£7) proved a light, refreshing dessert. Set to a gentle
wobble, it was dressed with mango gel which added a fruity note, organic cocoa
nibs and toasted flaked almonds which gave contrasting texture and flavour.
Visually, this was yet another beautifully presented dish.

Unlike
other small plate restaurants, service at Merienda is not hurried. Bookings are
staggered to encourage a leisurely enjoyment of food and wine. It also allows
the staff to get t give more individual attention in a welcoming, informal and
relaxed manner. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed chatting with owner Campbell over
lunch, wishes it the continued success it deserves, and will follow its
progress with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide

Restaurant Review: Southside Scran, Edinburgh (November 2019)

[Tom Kitchin at Southside Scran]

The Auld alliance is alive and kicking at Southside Scran
bistro in the affluent Bruntsfield district of Edinburgh.  Opened by chef Tom Kitchin in November 2018, it
combines the ambience of a French bistro with the cuisine of a Scottish master chef.
It is the third of his venues in the capital, alongside his eponymous Michelin
starred restaurant in Leith and the Scran and Scallie gastropub in Stockbridge,
which holds a Bib Gourmand.         .

The attractive, spacious interior, designed by Michaela
Kitchin, evokes a distinctly Parisian feel, enhanced by French background music.
Plain wooden and tiled floors, mirrors and brass fittings, including an impressive
mesh screen, blend harmoniously with the dark green and brown colour scheme. Different
table arrangements in the split level dining area are paired with a variety of
seating, featuring comfortable banquettes and classic bistro chairs in a range
of materials and textures.  

[Southside Scran Interior]

Natural light cascading through the wide picture windows
give the restaurant a bright airy feel.  At night, cleverly positioned wall, pendant
and spot lighting, together with a roaring fire in the bar area, give the restaurant
a comforting, snug feel, especially in winter. 

Pride of place must go to a magnificent Maestro Rotisserie,
a boon for daily poultry, meat and fish dishes.

[Head Chef Hearty Derlet and FoH leader for the evening Diego Carrozzo]

Hearty Derlet, Head Chef, comes from the Kitchin fold, having
spent two years in Leith before moving to China and returning for the bistro’s
opening as sous chef, before being promoted. Leading a team of seven, he
ensures that Tom Kitchin’s philosophy of “From Nature to Plate” is given full
expression in the varied menu. This involves the sourcing of the finest, mainly
Scottish, seasonal ingredients as the basis for cooking French bistro style
dishes. Consistency in cooking standards is maintained through limited opening
– Wednesday to Sunday lunch and dinner – relieving pressure on the kitchen, and
a modest range of dishes, each of which can be perfected.

The November menu featured four starters, £12.50 to £18;
five “From the Land”, £16 to £26; three “From the Sea,” £15.50 to £19.50 and
fish of the day at market price; three salads in two sizes; four vegetarian
dishes, £8 to £14; eight sides all £4.50; and five desserts, £8.50 each. To
these are added daily starter and main “specials.” Prices are fair and realistic
given the outstanding quality of the produce, the skill in cooking, the
generous portions, the well-judged service and the refined surroundings. They
also compare favourably with similar restaurants in Edinburgh. For those on a
more limited budget, a set lunch (3/4 courses (Including cheese) for £21.50/29.50),
with three choices in each course, offers excellent value for money with no
reduction in the standard of the cooking.

Heading the front of house team on the Saturday lunch time we
visited was Diego Carrozzo, another veteran of the Kitchin fold, whose
undoubted charm was matched by his extensive knowledge of food and wine. His
warm, welcoming, relaxed yet professional service quickly put us at our ease

Our lunch began with a good selection of nibbles: crisp
baguette with good butter; a well flavoured, smooth chicken liver mousse with
calvados jelly, homemade crisps and cornichons. Whilst lesser establishments
often charge for these basics, here they are offered freely.

A first course of salmon raviolo featured exemplary thin
pasta encasing a generous, well-seasoned, textured filling of the subtle
tasting fish. Balancing this was a vibrant, deeply flavoured, rich yet not too
creamy shellfish bisque. An acid test of an accomplished kitchen, this passed
with flying colours.

The earthiness of an open, thin chickpea pancake worked well as the base for the beautifully fresh white meat of Newhaven crab. This was spiked with as a well-judged oriental kick of chilli, ginger and coriander’ which did not overwhelm the delicate crab. It was also pleasing to see good use made of the brown meat in a mayonnaise served separately. Little gem lettuce added the crisp salad texture the dish needed.

A “special” of veal sweetbreads saw this delectable piece of
offal accurately timed to produce a   caramelised crust and soft, smooth, creamy
flesh. Roasted and pureed pumpkin gave an earthy sweetness which contrasted
with the mild, savoury taste of the sweetbreads. Soft pillows of sautéed
gnocchi added substance to the dish which was finished with crisp sage leaves
and pumpkin seeds. Overall, this was a beautifully conceived and well executed
dish.

Scottish mallard en croute from the main menu was not a dish
for the faint hearted. The two very generous slices comprised a meal  in itself; had I known, I would not have ordered
a starter. With a mild gamey flavour and slightly coarse texture, the fatless breast
and leg meat of this wild duck, together with a vegetable farce, was wrapped en
crepinette and pancetta, before being covered with puff pastry. The result was
moist, tender meat encased in a crisp, flaky, golden crust with no soggy
bottom. Finished with a smooth, gently sweet parsnip pure and a rich red wine
reduction, this was a tour de force
of game cookery.

A whole small turbot, expertly cooked on the plancha grill, was deftly skinned and filleted at the table by Diego, adding a little theatre to the service. The large flakes of the gleaming white flesh retained their moistness, and it was good to see the often overlooked but delicious cheeks also being served. Sauce Grenobleoise, with its beurre noisette, lemon and capers gave a rich and sharp lift to the mild flavoured fish; brown shrimps added a stronger seafood note and croutons gave a contrasting crispness.   

Three side dishes – a ragout of lentils and lardons, fondant
potatoes, garlic and spring onions, and warm French beans, hazelnuts and shallots
were given the same care and attention as the main courses. The large portions
were designed for sharing.

Nor was there was any deceleration in the desserts, often
the Achilles heel of bistro menus

From the set menu, a Sea buckthorn tart had crisp pate
sucree and well balanced sweet and sour filling, the berries reduced down with
sugar and carrot juice to moderate their intense bitterness.  A cold and acidic quenelle of yogurt sorbet provided
the ideal foil in temperature and texture.

Finally, from the main menu, a pear poached in red wine was
suitably soft and yielding. Stem ginger gave a warming note, and crème
Chantilly was well flavoured with vanilla. This fruit and spice combination,
balanced by the richness of the cream, worked well in this simple yet well
executed dessert.

Good espresso finished a memorable lunch, one enhanced by relaxed
ambience and the exciting buzz of contented diners as the restaurant began to
fill. Now in its second year of trading, Southside  Scran has made its mark in the vibrant
Edinburgh dining scene. Well above the average bistro standards in its food,
service, design and décor, it can only go from strength to strength in a highly
competitive market. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its visit and will follow its
progress with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide

Restaurant Review: Aizle, Edinburgh (November 2019)

This feature will outline chef/owner Stuart Ralston’s background and career as a chef before analysing his cuisine against the criteria Michelin use for awarding a star.

[Chef/Owner of Aizle, Stuart Ralston]

Cooking is in Stuart’s blood. His inspiration to become a chef came from his parents and brother, all of whom were chefs. Growing up in an environment of restaurants and hotels, he started working for his father at the age of 13 as a kitchen porter. From 16, he began to take the industry more seriously, gaining placements in other leading Scottish restaurants. Ian McNaught at Roman Camp and David Williams at Greywalls in Guillane became his teachers and mentors. Stuart also had experience at Inverlochy Castle. Aspirationally, Stuart’s inspiration was Gordon Ramsay, whose blossoming career he avidly followed, with a keen desire to work for him.

This
finally happened when he trialled at Gordon Ramsay at the Connaught. Then came Stuart’s
biggest break when he was transferred to Ramsay’s eponymous two Michelin starred
restaurant in New York. Here, over two years, he was able to work in all
sections, moving from commis chef 3 to senior chef de partie. This huge leap in
his career, in a team who progressed to become top chefs around the world, and
with connections made through Gordon Ramsay, boosted Stuart’s reputation and international
standing. Thus he was offered jobs in two and three star New York restaurants,
settling in a positon at the three Michelin starred Jean-Georges. This was cut
short by the financial crisis, but he gained another top position executive
chef at the exclusive Core Club.

After
five years in the Big Apple, Stuart returned to the UK, being appointed Head
Chef at Lower Slaughter Manor where he quickly gained three AA rosettes and was
inspected for a Michelin star. However, a year later, the company went out of
business, a bitter sweet moment as coincidentally he was offered the Head Chef
position at the opulent, world famous Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados. He stayed
there for three years, part of a culinary team that oversaw five kitchens with
120 chefs and massive revenues.

Having
been away from Scotland for ten years, Stuart decided to make is name in his
homeland, and Edinburgh in particular, where leading chefs such as Tom Kitchin
and Martin Wishart had given the capital gastronomic credibility in the buzzing
restaurant scene.

Passionate about being independent, finances enabled him to open Aizle in Edinburgh’s Southside without the need for investors. “Humble, small and low key” – the opposite of Sandy Lane – it made a quick impact as a tasting menu only restaurant, the first in Edinburgh. Over five and a half years he has gained a large and loyal clientele, demonstrating that a no-choice menu can have wide appeal if done well. Consequently, amongst other accolades, Aizle has been voted fifth best restaurant in the UK and second best in Edinburgh by Trip Advisor. After three years of inclusion in the Good Food Guide, the 2020 edition has finally appreciated the hard work and incremental changes it has made over time, awarding the highest mark so far of 6/10.

Aizle’s pastel
blue frontage with large picture windows displays an ingenious nature inspired
graphic design which incorporates the restaurant’s name above the entrance. Inside,
the shades of blue, grey and cream give a warm, comforting feel. Décor in the
high ceiling room is kept to a minimum, the main features being two blackboards
listing the ingredients of the dishes on the menu. Clearly, the focus is on the
food, with few distractions. Even the menu cannot be read until the end of the
meal, when it is handed to the diner. Instead, the engaging and knowledgeable
staff, who may include the person who cooked it, present and explain each dish
as it arrives.

The
rest of this feature will analyse Stuart Ralston’s cuisine against aspects of
the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a Michelin star: cooking techniques
employed; balance and harmony in flavour; consistency across the menu and over
time; provenance of ingredients; and value for money

Stuart uses mainly classical techniques with
modern flavour combinations. A simple chocolate mousse is executed in a
classical way involving emulsification and is often paired with salty, umami
Japanese elements. Aged beef with cherry mustard, involving barbequing and
grilling on a Japanese grill to produce a simplistic beautiful flavour has been
skilfully employed, hence the dish is available often throughout the year.
Conversely, a summer dish of Cod with sweet corn succotash with katsuobushi sauce,
involves the classical techniques of fermentation and pureeing.

Sous vide is not employed on a day to day
basis.  It is never used to cook fish. Game
birds are roasted whole. Cooking meat and fish classically in a pan is the
preferred classical method. Confidence, and actually being present to ensure
precise timing, is essential for success. As Stuart is present at every
service, consistency is guaranteed. He agrees that sous vide can be employed
successfully in high level restaurants but can be misused in lesser
establishments.

Whilst balance
and harmony are taken into account in the creation of a new dish and menu,
Stuart believes some ingredients in a dish may be (say) dominantly rich or
acidic with good reason, to allow the flavours and profile to be bold. This
does not mean a dish cannot be in equilibrium.

Consider
the first, labour intensive, snack on the tasting menu: fresh, very rich goat’s
curd encased in a sweet, delicate beetroot glass tube, with an acidic gel in
the middle which helps balance the other two elements. Pine nuts add an
interesting harmonious background. Essentially sweet and rich, a combination
common with cheese, such as cheese and chutney, this snack is a successful “one
bite, one shot opener which grabs the diner’s attention at the start of the
meal.”

At the other end of the meal is chocolate mousse. The main ingredient
from the celebrated Norman chocolatier, Michel Cluizel, has a malty, salty,
caramel quality. It rests on Black sugar from Okinawa reduced right down with Scottish
whiskey. A wafer thin nut praline is topped with
Kinako ice cream of roasted soya bean flower. These elements give a quite tonal
and therefore balanced character, with the combination of chocolate, nuts, milk
and salt, giving a balanced, rich and comforting feel.

Harmony and balance across the whole menu is also carefully considered in
terms of tastes, textures, temperatures and range of ingredients. Dishes also progress
from small to large.

The second snack, sweet potato with teryaki and sesame is hot and fried, comforting and warming, with a very different robust profile.

By contrast, the third snack, a crab tartlet with caviar and apple is luxurious with delicately thin filo pastry

The first course always highlights a
vegetable, in this case a super comforting and fragrantly luxurious dish of
girolles served with ricotta tortellini, aged parmesan and Italian black
truffle.

Bread is served as the next course to balance
the previous smaller snacks and as a prelude to the more substantial fish and
meat courses.  Served by the pastry chef,
the mother base of the sourdough named Roger is four and a half years old. The
warm rolls are flavoured with caramelised onion, lemon thyme and black garlic
and served with cultured butter made in house.

The fish
and meat courses flow naturally in succession:

Isle of
Gigha halibut with Shetland mussels and Ken Holland broccoli, employs prime
ingredients precisely timed to maximise their inherent delicate flavours

A game
dish features breast of wild partridge topped with smoked sausage haggis and
served with cabbage, Pommes Anna and a blackberry gel captured more robust,
earthy flavours and textures.

Vacherin
Mont d’Or baked with Edinburgh blossom honey, and served with quince purée and
homemade focaccia provides a stimulating savoury and sweet, hot and cold cheese
course

To
balance this, a pre dessert of sea buckthorn (reduced down with sugar and
carrot juice to moderate it is intense sharpness), yogurt and lemon balm is
suitably cold and acidic to act as a palate cleanser before the final rich
dessert.

A rich
chocolate mousse, described above, and dainty petit fours complete this
sensational menu.

Consistency
at a basic level involves everything being weighed: for instance fish portions
at 65 grams, bread rolls at 55 grams, tartlets have the same amount of crab and
are of the same size and shape.

Consistency
in standards is achieved by ensuring each chef cooks at the same station in each
of the four open evenings, Wednesday to Saturday. Changes only occur when
Stuart is convinced mastery has been achieved in his or her section. Closing
three days a week ensures staff are not exhausted, retaining their energy, passion
and enthusiasm. The team is energised as they feel ownership of the restaurant as
part of a team with important responsibilities. Everyone takes holidays at the
same time to negate any problems if Stuart is absent. Overseeing the service
each day, Stuart himself ensures that no dishes leave the passe without his
approval.

Consistency
with suppliers is achieved by good relations built over 10 to 15 years. They
know the high quality Stuart demands. Only big fish are bought for flavour and
only wild fish and game are sourced. Daily orders are checked to ensure quality,
size and presentation..

At Aizle, Scotland’s bounteous larder is
exploited to the full for its seasonal menus: Gigha halibut, Shetland mussels,
wild partridge, girolles, blackberries, sea buckthorn and blossom honey all
feature in the autumn menu. Other top quality and seasonal ingredients are sourced
from notable suppliers: broccoli from specialist grower Ken Holland’s farm in
Northumberland; Aged Parmesan and black truffle from Italy; and Vacherin Mont
d’Or and Martin Cluizel chocolate from France. Given Stuart’s extensive
knowledge of Far Eastern ingredients, Katsuobushi, Okinawa black sugar and Kinako,
roasted soya bean flour, are sourced from Japan. As mentioned above, daily
deliveries are thoroughly checked for quality, size and presentation.

Stuart
sees value for money partly in terms of how people feel when they leave a
restaurant: have they got something for their money; have they been looked
after; have they been impressed with the standard of ingredients? Examining the
list above, wild fish and game, caviar, truffles, expensive French cheese and
chocolate are quality, luxury ingredients that come at a cost which most guests
appreciate. That many are repeat customers, some having eaten at Aizle 40 to 50
times over five years, is testament to its success in this respect. From an
economics point of view, there has to be value in the meal, as certain costs
have to be achieved, these being pushed to the limit in buying the best yet
keeping the restaurant sustainable. Overall, a huge effort is made at Aizle,
including learning from previous mistakes, to achieve value for money at its
price point.

Having cooked for 23 years, Stuart’s energies at the age of 36 are still undiminished. Indeed, August this year saw the opening of his second restaurant, Noto, in Thistle Street. More casual than Aizle, and open all week, it has a neighbourhood feel. Serving a small plates menu with Asian influences, Noto has received good reviews, keeping its strong team constantly busy serving 48 covers with 110 on Saturdays. Stuart aims to keep cooking at Aizle, but splits his time between the two restaurants, empowering managers and senior staff, who have been loyal to the company. In the long term, perhaps another restaurant on the lines of Noto may be envisaged.

[Richard (chef de partie), Danielle (chef de partie) Stuart Ralston (chef owner), Tobias (pastry)]

Aizle, which means a “burning coal, a glowing hot ember, a spark” will undoubtedly continue to burn bright. Stuart’s investment in people, at Aizle and at Noto, has clearly paid dividends. With its team of four chefs and four front of house serving fifteen tables, Aizle has gone from strength to strength.  It will remain Stuart’s main focus of attention, as he cooks here each service. Fine Dining Guide enjoyed its meal and meeting with Stuart and will look forward to the restaurant’s increased recognition in the national restaurant guides. A Michelin star cannot be too far away.

from Fine Dining Guide

Review: MacDonald Holyrood Hotel, Surf and Turf Concept (Nov 2019)

“Scottish fish and seafood is by far the best in the world…Aberdeen Angus…it’s the most sought after beef on the world.” Such is bold claim on the menu of Surf and Turf, the new dining concept at the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel.

For those
of a mature age, the term “Surf and Turf” may evoke memories of blackened, well
done steaks of dubious origin, and seafood the texture of cotton wool, the
mainstay of a well-known Steakhouse chain in the 1960s and 70s.

This could be no further from the truth with the Surf and Turf concept where great care has been taken in sourcing the finest quality Scottish ingredients and constructing an appealing, adventurous menu. Originally trialled at Macdonald Rusacks Hotel in St Andrews, the Surf and Turf menu is the creation of Glenn Roach, regional executive chef for the hotel group.

[Concept Creator Executive Head Chef Glenn Roach]

A runaway success, the concept was also transferred to the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel in August 2019.

Head Chef
Dan Mellor who heads the kitchens has 17 years’ experience cooking in Edinburgh
hotels, most recently at The Raeburn in Stockbridge where he spent two years.
He has overseen the transition from the previous fine dining restaurant to Surf
and Turf which started in August 2019. Popular with American guests during the
Edinburgh Festival, custom has picked up since then, confirming the concept’s
winning formula with guests.

At the
heart of the menu are the signature dishes, 21 day aged rump, rib eye, sirloin
and fillet steaks sold by weight, 200 grams to a kilo! Adding seafood –
lobster, king prawns or scallops – creates a dish where the succulence of beef
and freshness of seafood create a harmonious combination of tastes and textures..

But the
menu is far more than this, incorporating an exciting range of dishes from
simple to luxurious. Mini tacos of chilli beef, avocado, sour cream and chills
and lobster arancini appear in the “Bites and Starters” section; a charcuterie
platter is an option on the “From the Farm” section; Venison Wellington appears
the “Classics” section; and sweet potato gnocchi and wild mushroom risotto are
choices on the “Vegetarian” section.

Given the
quality of the ingredients and the skill required in cooking, prices are
realistic: starters range from £4 to £7; Classics £15 to £50 (Venison Wellington
for two); and fish dishes £15 to £17. Sides are £3.50 to £6 and sauces for
steaks £3 to £3.50. From the Surf and Turf signatures, a 200 gram rib eye costs
£27; paired with king prawns an extra £9.

Many fish
and meat dishes require precise timing and adequate resting to maximise flavour
and texture. This applies even more to expensive cuts of beef and fresh seafood
which command premium prices. In this respect Surf and Turf scores highly,
fully respecting the inherent qualities of first class produce. A degree of
invention and creativity is also evident in some of the other options, where
ingredients complement each other. Presentation is clean, with no overcrowding
of the plate.

Although
the restaurant has been rebranded, the actual décor and furnishings remain the
same. Not that the room needed changing. The spacious wooden floored dining room
has an inevitable corporate feel but is no less attractive for that. With a bar
at one end, it is dressed in warming tones of brown, grey and cream, with well positioned
wall and spotlighting. Comfortable leather banquettes and smart curved backed
dining chairs are arranged around well-spaced, marble or wooden topped tables,
providing a maximum of 80 covers.

A
midweek dinner in November proved an enjoyable experience

A starter
of beetroot cured halibut saw delicate slices of flaky white flesh, tinged with
the colour of the marinade which did not mask the deliciously creamy flavour of
the fish.  Pickled shallots added a gentle
acidity which balanced the sweetness of the beetroot puree dots. Celeriac
remoulade gave a contrasting texture and charred lime a slight bitterness.
Served on a white plate, this was a vibrantly coloured dish of ingredients
which complemented each other well.

Another
starter of seared scallops was accurately timed to produce a caramelised crust
and soft, translucent flesh. The saltiness of samphire worked as a seasoning,
balancing the sweetness of the scallops, and giving a crisp texture. Dressed
with caviar, salmon roe and curried cauliflower puree, which contrasted in temperature
and colour, and finished with a chive oil, this was another well executed,
visually attractive dish.

Next came
a carnivore’s delight: a main course of a 350 gram of 21 day aged rib eye. With
a beautifully seared crust, it was cooked medium rare to retain succulence and
optimise flavour. Judicious seasoning and precise grilling and resting to reach
the correct temperature did full justice to this popular, well marbled cut of
meat.  Served with cherry vine tomatoes,
caramelised shallot, skin on French fries, the dish was finished with a deeply
rich, piquant peppercorn sauce.

The other
main course was a surf and turf combination of three elements. It was pleasing
to see the much neglected hake employed here to good effect. A fillet of this
soft textured, mild flavoured fillet was correctly cooked and served with a
croquette of beef shin and seared king scallop. The croquette had a crisp
coating and hot creamed potato filling but needed a little more of the
delicious shin. The scallop itself was well executed and rested on a caper and
pomegranate dressing which gave salty and sweet flavours. Perhaps dish needed
some acidity to balance these and lift the seafood elements. Swirls and dots of
spinach puree added visual impact.

Two  competent desserts finished the meal

Sticky
date pudding was well flavoured, light and not too rich. The indulgent element was
given by the butterscotch sauce which, thankfully, was not oversweet. The
accompanying vanilla ice cream was smooth and velvety and the apple crisp gave
texture 

Apple
soufflé with calvados, cooked in a shallow dish instead of a ramekin, had an
airy lightness and perfect texture with no hint of egginess. Added sweetness
and contrasting texture was given by finely diced apple and an apple crisp.  A little more calvados would have taken this
dessert to an even higher level.

In its 20^th anniversary year, the
Macdonald Holyrood Hotel has adapted its restaurant offering away from fine
dining to the more popular alternative of Surf and Turf, with a more informal,
relaxed service. Now only it its fourth month, the rebranding has already shown
signs of success with a growing clientele. Fine Dining Guide wishes the new
concept continued success and will follow its progress with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide