Chef Interview: Gary Foulkes, Angler Restaurant (November 2019)

This article
is in a series designed not to provide ‘A N Other’ opinion about a chef’s
output, to be lost in the now sea of increasing ‘noise’ about top end
dining. In this article the chef will analyse four of their signature
dishes against aspects of the five criteria used by Michelin for awarding a
Michelin star. As a reminder the five criteria were explained in an interview
with Michael Ellis (at the time WW Director of Michelin Guides) and are given
below.

The first and
most important criteria is the provenance of ingredients; all great cuisine
starts with great product – the actual product itself is considered for
freshness, quality, flavour and texture and so on. The second criteria is
mastery of cooking technique. The third criteria is equilibrium and harmony in
flavours. The fourth criteria is regularity (or consistency) and this means
starter, main and dessert are each of the appropriate standard and that each
are also consistent over time. Finally, value for money is the fifth criteria.

[Chef Gary Foulkes, Angler Restaurant which has a Michelin Star]

There was
no romantic epiphany for Gary when it came to becoming a chef as a career. There
wasn’t, for example, a childhood cooking moment, sitting on a grandmother’s knee
that enamoured him with the process of preparing food.  It was more a case of serendipity that through
a school work experience placement, he was sent to spend a week in a
hotel.  Each day would see a different
department – reception, bar, housekeeping and so on – the last day was spent in
the kitchen.  Gary found the kitchen to
be the most interesting of all, exhibiting a real team atmosphere, where the chefs
were all focused on what they were doing, while still managing to have a good
time.

After
leaving school in the mid 1990s, Gary joined the Chester Grosvenor as a commis
chef before moving to a Gary Rhodes outpost in Manchester.  Some while later, a journey south saw him
invest time at Lords of the Manor under John Campbell, before some time later
returning to John’s stewardship as sous chef at The Vineyard near Newbury.  In between, Gary was in London with a stint
as a chef de partie under Richard Neat at the Oxo Tower and then for two years
as a chef de partie for William Drabble at Aubergine. 

Most
recent prior to Angler, Gary found an eight-year home at the iconic The Square restaurant
under Phil Howard.  Indeed, The Square
tenure was split by some time spent travelling, the return prompted by a call
from Phil (Howard) after the departure of his then head chef, Rob Weston, to La
Trompette. Gary returned as head chef alongside Phil at the two Michelin star
institution.

Gary is
not the first chef interviewed by fine dining guide to speak highly of the
sheer natural instinctive cooking talent of Rob Weston.  While it was a potentially daunting
proposition to take on, Gary quickly adapted to his elevated role at The
Square. Gary and Phil remain good friends to this day, speaking regularly.

[Angler Restaurant, dining room, 7th Floor South Place Hotel, London]

Angler
Restaurant, as the name suggests, has an emphasis on fish and seafood and is
situated on the 7^th floor of The South Place Hotel.  Moorgate based and boasting a heart of the
city location, the site represents the first departure by D&D Group into
hotels and with Angler, the only current Michelin starred restaurant in their
group.  Gary Foulkes has headed up the
kitchen since 2016 and thereafter successfully retained the Michelin
accolade.  The dining room is bright,
light, airy and has a welcoming atmosphere with a gentle buzz on a weekday lunch
time, ably assisted by the polished front of house operation.

Gary Foulkes now discusses how each of a selection of four signature
dishes are created by those Michelin criteria for stars.  This will entail a discussion in terms of
cooking technique and balance and harmony on a plate for each dish.  The selection
of quality ingredients and provenance is also reviewed in the context of the
broader menu offerings. This will be supplemented by a general overview of how
consistency across the menu and over time is achieved.

The first dish is the mackerel tartare, oyster cream, apple and shiso.  The dish provides a natural opener to the
tasting menu as it is fresh, clean, light, visual and a delicious start to the
meal. The mackerel is sourced from Cornwall and like all pelagic fish
(mid-Ocean) they are
at their best in autumn and winter.  Fish
and shellfish are sourced (including lobster) from Cornwall with langoustines
and scallops arriving from Orkney and live crabs from Dorset. Where appropriate
fish is line caught and this quality makes a substantial difference to taste
and texture.  Having long standing
relationships with suppliers of fish and seafood is vitally important as it
allows a mutual respect and bond of trust to develop.  This ensures that Gary always has the right
product at the right time at the right price for his menu requirements.

[mackerel tartare, oyster cream, apple and shiso]

In terms
of cooking techniques, the first process is to brine the mackerel which has the
impact of firming up the flesh.  This
prevents the tartare from disintegrating on the fork, while providing a similar
eating texture to a traditional beef tartare. After filleting and chopping, a
binding process of a little crème fraîche, shallots, lemon zest and white soy –
the white soy is used instead of salt for seasoning.  This avoids partially curing the fish and
therefore helps assure a consistent product. Oyster mayonnaise, seaweed, shiso
and apple bring a mixture of iron, tartness and fragrance to lift, cut and
bring together a balance and harmony to the dish.

The second dish is Newlyn cod, caramelised parsley root, line caught squid and chanterelles.  Gary is self-described as pedantic in all aspects of sourcing, preparation and cooking and so requires 6-8kg cod for the purposes of this dish.  The cod is filleted, brined and air dried as the texture is vitally important.  Should the cod fillet arrive at the table already split (with gaps in the flesh,) it is a sure sign of overcooking.  The approach is to have it flake on the customer’s knife. The squid is scored then sits in grapeseed oil for half an hour before cooking. The dish is a stable all year-round concept with the garnish rotating throughout the seasons. In winter it is a caramelised parsley root with chanterelles but in summer it would be cauliflower purée with girolles or in spring with peas and morels. 

[Newlyn cod, caramelised parsley root, line caught squid and chanterelles]

As a
fairly robust fish, cod is a great vehicle for flavour, so will tolerate a
broader span of accompanying harmonious flavours, that will equally provide
equilibrium on a plate.  The extension of
this observation is that it naturally facilitates seasonality.  In terms of provenance, the world may have
become a smaller place, but seasonality is still a key factor in Gary’s
thinking. This philosophy is given the additional mantra of seeking out the
best, not just the local.  “If I want a
white peach, I’ll source it from Italy but in terms of fish, I genuinely believe
British fish is the best you can get,” observes Gary.

[Wild turbot, razor clams, Japanese mushrooms and katsuobushi.]

The third dish is the Wild turbot, razor clams, Japanese mushrooms and katsuobushi.  Gary spent time travelling in Japan. On one evening, he tried the most amazing dashi and the chef kindly gave him the recipe.  When Gary came back as head chef at The Square the turbot dish was introduced using key elements of this discovery.  Over the years, the recipe and cooking times have been tweaked to perfect the Turbot dish as it stands on the menu today.  The Turbot are sourced at 3-4kg to give a thick fillet. The fish is wrapped in Kombu and steamed at 78 degrees to provide a pearlescent finish. The flavour enhancement impact is beautiful in combining a form of richness and mild salty infusion. Some dashi is set using a vegetable gel to allow a layer of what looks like skin to sit over the top of the presented fillet.  A poached Japanese mushroom broth is combined with slow cooked razor clams and a black squid ink noodle.  A jug of dashi is offered on the side to finish the dish at the table.

Regardless
of volume of customers, every guest should receive the same product.  To allow consistency to come more readily, there
are specific recipe books and processes – including taste filters by Gary and
his sous chef Mark – right down to the vinaigrette with the scallops.  A recipe is always specific, not the juice of
two lemons but the exact grams or precise measures that may be required.  There is no hiding place in a brigade of 10
chefs and pre-preparation is also vital to consistency.  Adaptations to any menu or recipe have a
collective creativity and a process to their adoption.

[Blackcurrant sable, wild thyme, Brillat Savarin cheesecake cream and vanilla]

The
Blackcurrant sable, wild thyme, Brillat Savarin cheesecake cream and vanilla
dessert is another dish that has a basic framework with elements rotating
throughout the seasons. Gary might provide the original ingredients that a dish
might contain then a collective and iterative effort ensues in reaching the end
product. In summer it was white peach and lemon verbena, in spring it was
strawberry, black olive and Greek basil and so on.  Gary is particular about creating a wow
factor with desserts as he says, “Nobody has a dessert because they think it’s
healthy for them, they have it because they want something delicious,” and
“Fruit, an element of cream, richness, crunch and zingy-ness are all elements
to a great dessert” reflects Gary.

Overall,
Angler restaurant has formed a significant gastronomic landmark in the city, in
the able hands of Gary Foulkes, serving an ever growing, discerning and
appreciative clientele.  A point of note
is that two key mentors have held the accolade of two Michelin stars, with the
food sampled at Angler worthy of such comparisons.  While Gary has clearly grown as a chef thanks
to his travels both globally and within the Michelin firmament, his individual
creative style leads to a polished finished article.  No doubt Gary Foulkes, his kitchen and welcoming
front of house teams will continue to push forward and fine dining guide looks
forward to returning soon.

from Fine Dining Guide

Pub Review: The Plough Inn, Cold Aston. (October 2019)

The Plough Inn lies in the centre of the beautiful Gloucestershire village of Cold Aston. Accessed from a single track road off the A249, between Stow and Cirencester, the honey coloured stone walled, slate roofed buildings and wide open spaces typify the near idyllic attractions of Cotswold village life. Little wonder that roughly 30% of current residents are second homeowners.

This is where owner Oxford graduate and management
consultant Thomas Hughes and his partner Josie have chosen to raise a family
and establish a business which gives full expression to their passions of food,
drink, hospitality and design. Thomas’s previous experience, including leading
roles at the Wheatsheaf Inn, Northleach and at Peter de Savary’s Cary Arms and
Spa in Devon, has clearly stood him in good stead.

The Hughes took over in 2017, adding to the extensive renovation which had already taken place under the previous ownership. In particular, the three renovated and decorated ensuite double bedrooms have allowed Josie to demonstrate her talents in this field. 

Dating from 1687, The Plough Inn retains many of its older features. In the front half of the building there are heavy oak doors, flagstone floor, mullioned windows, an inglenook fireplace, and a low beamed ceiling with candle and wall lighting. Renovation in the brighter back dining area beyond the bar includes wooden flooring, French windows, skylights, spotlighting and splashes of designer wallpaper. These contemporary touches harmonise with the historic charm of the Grade 2 listed building. Well-spaced striped pine tables accommodate up to 85 diners, whilst the outside terraces, complete with Rattan furniture and parasols, allow for al fresco dining.

[Chris Hopkinson Barman; Thomas Hughes owner; Jonathan Grey chef]

Thomas Hughes and his chef, who has worked with Michelin
starred John Burton-Race, have designed an attractive food and beverage offering
which has already attracted a loyal following, including those from the two
neighbouring villages which lack a hostelry. Being close to Bourton-on-the-Water
and Northleach, The Plough can also gain custom from those who prefer village to
town pubs.  

A sophisticated beverage selection is much in evidence. As a Free House, a wide range of craft beers and real ales is on offer.

The wine list has a good selection from Old and New Worlds which avoids greedy mark ups. The range of spirits, especially gin, is impressive. Also of interest are the “Nightcaps” such as the White Russian of Black Cow Vodka, Kahlu and cream.

The provenance of high quality local ingredients is a
priority: Cotswold leg bar eggs, local wild mushrooms, Rollright Chipping
Norton cheese and Gloucester Old Spot pork all featured on the current menu.
30+ day aged ruby red steaks and other meat products are sourced from Martin’s
Meats and Ruby and White where animal welfare is important. Fish is supplied
daily from the renowned Kingfishers of Brixham. There are reliable local
suppliers of seasonal game and vegetables.

Bar snacks such as chicken wings with harissa glaze (£5.50)
or Padron peppers with olive oil and salt (£4.00) are available to those who prefer
a lighter bite.

The seasonally changing carte is competitively priced,
offering a good range of traditional pub classics with more innovative dishes.
Vegetarians and pescatarians are also have an embarrassment of choice.

On the current Autumn menu eight starters priced £7.50 to £9
feature popular dishes such as Devilled kidneys and Steak tartare alongside the
more adventurous Palourde clams with nduja, smoked lovage and spring onions.
There are seven mains, £12.50 to £18, two salads, £15-£16, two steak dishes,
£17 to £24, with a choice of sauces, and two sharing dishes, cote de beouf or
whole sea bass with accompaniments, £60 and £35 respectively. Five desserts
come at £6.60 each with ice creams and sorbets at £2 per scoop. Three English
cheeses from a choice of five are priced at £9.00. At weekends two or three
specials are added to the menu.

A good value weekday lunchtime fixed priced menu offers two
courses or three courses £15 or £17 respectively.

In addition, there are special deals: Steak nights on
Tuesday (steak frites for two and a bottle of house red for £30); Winter Warmer
Wednesdays (e.g. pie, coq au vin, beef bourguignon for two and a house drink
for £30); and Dirty Thursday ( a sharing BBQ platter – all home produced – and
a can of craft beer for £15 per person).

Given the quality of the ingredients and the expertise of the kitchen, the pricing is keenly judged and weighs favourably with similar establishments in this highly competitive field.

The skills shown in kitchen are high. Dishes are precisely timed and balanced in their ingredient composition, taste and texture. Sauces benefit from stocks made from scratch and meat dishes, in particular, benefit from the use of a “Bertha” charcoal fired oven, which is also used as an in-house smoker. Overall, this is honest, robust cooking with a degree of flair.

A warm greeting from owner Thomas Hughes on our Friday lunchtime made us feel most welcome. Throughout the meal, the service was friendly, informative and unobtrusive.

A charcuterie board starter was generous in quantity and attractive in presentation. Suffolk chorizo had a gentle smokiness and not overpowering spice; the sweet earthy flavour of venison salami was enhanced by an appropriate amount of fat; pulled barbequed pork  was rich and indulgent; celeriac remoulade added a lively mustardy crunch; and cornichons gave a tart, mildly sweet freshness. Served with toasted sourdough and good quality butter, this was a meal in itself.

Simpler, but equally delicious was a dish of sauteed Chanterelles on toasted sourdough topped with a Cotswold Legbar fried egg. The meaty textured mushroom with its velvety consistency had a rich, earthy flavour with a hint of pepperiness. The creamy, dense flavoured egg yolk served as a sauce whilst the toasted bread gave contrast in taste and texture. The shaved black truffle did not overwhelm, but the dish did not need this expensive ingredient.

The cooking of a flavoursome Tomahawk pork chop in a main course was accurately timed in the Bertha oven to retain its moisture and succulence. A wholegrain mustard sauce cut the richness of the meat. Bubble and squeak, tender stem broccoli and green beans were well judged accompaniments to this hearty, comforting dish.

A schnitzel of guinea fowl breast ran the risk of becoming too dry if not treated with care. As it was, the cooking was well judged, leading to a soft, moist interior and crisp crumbed exterior. The gentle gaminess of the bird was lifted by a butter and caper sauce which gave richness and a moderate piquancy. Parmentier potatoes were well-seasoned and seasonal greens properly cooked to al dente texture.

Two contrasting desserts were selected

Warm sticky date pudding, moist and fluffy, floated on a
rich butterscotch sauce partnered with a velvety smooth vanilla ice cream. This
indulgent dish of contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures has proved an
irresistible dessert in many restaurants, and here was no exception.

Cotswold gin and tonic cheesecake was an innovative take on a popular dessert. It might have been improved with less gelatine and more acidity, the small pieces of fresh lime being insufficient to boost the taste. Although the shards of meringue gave contrasting texture and sweetness, the main element of this dessert needed a lift.

Despite this hiccup, our visit to the Plough Inn was an
overall success. The buzz of contented diners on a busy Friday afternoon was a
testament to the popularity it has already gained.  A great deal of investment and hard work has
been ploughed – excuse the pun – into this exciting addition to the Cotswold
dining scene. Fine Dining Guide hopes to visit again to sample other items –
perhaps on one of the special nights – and may even book an overnight stay. In
the meantime, we will follow its progress with interest.

from Fine Dining Guide

Map: Britain’s Top Restaurants (2020)

This is a map that brings together the leading restaurants of Great Britain according to three leading inspector-led guides as at the release of the 2020 Guide editions.  Each of the Guides outlined below provides data in publicly available press releases each year, or in the case of the AA Guide through cumulative twice a year releases.  The points of note are as follows:

* The Waitrose Good Food Guide 2020 Top 50 are included and mapped.  The number in brackets next to the GFG score is the restaurant’s position within their top 50 list.

* The AA Restaurant Guide 2020 all 4 and 5 Rosette restaurants are mapped.

*The Michelin Guide 2020 all GB 2 and 3 Star restaurants are mapped.

Further points of note are as follows:

*The numbering of the labels is significant as it reflects the fine dining guide ranking – an FDG score derived from a specific formula applied to the three guides marks. The highest is 53 marks out of a maximum possible 58. 6 Points per Michelin Star, 3 Points per GFG Mark out of Ten and 2 Points per AA Rosette.

*There are many overlaps with these three guide mark catagories such that the final number of restaurants is 85.

[Britain’s Top Restaurants]

The embedded map is below, the recommendation is to click on the expand box in the top right corner to take you into google maps where you may manipulate the map more easily…

from Fine Dining Guide

Top 30 (Thirty) Restaurants GB 2020 (October 2019)

Below is a formula applied to the scores in leading guides to discover the top 30 (thirty) restaurants in Britain. This is up-to-date as at October 2019.

The weighting is toward Michelin with six points per Michelin star, three points per Waitrose Good Food Guide mark out of ten and two points per AA Restaurant Guide Rosette.  The number in brackets under GFG is the restaurant’s position in the GFG’s Top 50 published list. All three guides are the 2020 editions.

from Fine Dining Guide

London’s Top 100 Restaurants (October 2019)

Below is a formula applied to the scores in the 2020 editions of leading inspector led guides to discover the top 100+ (one hundred) restaurants in London. This is up-to-date as of October 2019.

The weighting is toward Michelin with six points per Michelin star, three points per Waitrose Good Food Guide mark out of ten and two points per AA Restaurant Guide Rosette.  The number in brackets under Waitrose GFG is the position in their 2020 Guide Top 50 restaurants of Great Britain list. Each Guide is the 2020 edition.

Two newly Michelin starred restaurants in London – Da Terra and Maos – both in Bethnal Green have yet to feature in either of the other guides so are unable to register a score of 15 or more to feature on the list.

from Fine Dining Guide